CAPTAIN CO AND INDIANA FO TREK IN THE ANDES (10th - 13th october)

Absolutely amazing really. I think I last left you with tales of a sinking boat on Titicaca. Following that we caught a deadly bus to Cusco during which journey a huge red suitcase fell from the luggage carrier onto Fos head. it was so hard and such a surprise that we both ended up with tears!! We've decided that this trip will be dubbed the trip of clamaties. Later on, druing this trekking we just completed, I ended up with a tent pole on my head, and a couple of cups of hot water, uncannily, all on different days. The crew we were with ended up not allowing me to pour the hot water for tea in case I ended up with it on my legs...again...

Once we arrived in Cusco we spent time exploring the city and running errands to prepare ourselves for the trek. We managed to do a day trip to the nearby Sacred Valley and explored some amazing incan ruins on our own agenda which pretty much meant the two of us scampering up and down hills, NOT following any paths or arrows telling us the correct way to visit and pretending we were indiana jones. We've also concocted this great new kids show called 'Fo and Co go wild' in which we use Fos camera to film ourselves presenting very fun but also informative presentations from the amazing places we've been visitng. I'll let you know when its picked up by a network. Anyway, we filmed another episode in the sacred valley - its pure genius - we really are naturals!

Following our independent excursion into the valley we were deposited bu our bus somewhere in Cusco that didnt appear on our map. captain Co, with her astute sense of direction charged off on a 'hunch' and we walked for pretty much half an hour cluelessly but speedily, impelled by our pre.trek briefing that we had to attend. Adding extra challenge to the adventure was the fact that it was getting dark and we had no money. Maybe about 50 American cents and a whole lot of Chilean pesos. Eventually a women we asked for directions, rattled something off in Spanish that we didnt understand. She persisted though and plied us onto a local bus that accepted about half the money we had, and before we knew it we were deposited right where we wanted to be. Sometimes you can meet amazing people - you just have to trust! Our pre-trek briefing succeeded in scaring the pants of us and had Fo ordering me around Cusco that ngiht collecting last minute things for the trek that I scoffed at needing but which surprsingly turned out useful. Like a rain poncho...and a walking stick...

Our group consisted of two other hikers, Lare and Simon from France who were so funny and great peopleto have in our small group. We were led by Peruvian Julian and attended by four porters, two who acted as cooks and two who tended the horses and tents etc. It was such an experience of being spoilt. We only carried our day packs, the horses carried everything else, including a massive gas canister for cooking the most gourmet food I have eaten in a long while. We would have a kitchen tent and a dinning tent set up for lunch and al we ahd to do was waltx into the dinning tent and be waited upon. Our meals were always three courses and amazing. We had coca tea at every meal, apparently it helps with the altitude. Once we were done we'd waltx off, begin hiking, while everything was cleared up by the porters. Maybe half an hour later they would charge by us on the trail at a speed that boggled my oxygen starved mind and have the our eveing camp set up. This would mean our tents and mattresses set up, a bowl of hot water and soap set out for each of us and afternoon tea set out in the dinning tent. Extraordianry service to say the least. These men are amazing mountain men. Thankfully, though, our tour company pays them quite well and equips them all with great trekking gear. Other porters we saw later on were wearing only sandals and doing the same work.

The trekking for us was absolutely amazing. We didn't get to do the Inca Trail as I'd hoped but in the end I think we had a better experience. We hiked what is called the Lares trek which takes you up valleys and over two mountain passes which are higher and more remote than the Inca trail. The only other people we saw were locals in tiny ancient looking villages where the houses are low and made of stone with thatched roofs. I thought Id stepped back in time. The mountain passes gave us these amazing views of mountains and glaciers and valleys, such a reward for the slog in thin air up steep, steep mountains. I think the highest point we reached was a pass at 4900m.

As a finale we trekked our way to some thermal hot springs where we spent an afternoon bathing our weary muscles and maybe I took on a little of the water which may have contributed to the incredible belly movements of the next day. Our last day of the trip had us up at 4am and bussing our way to the indescribable Macchu Pichu. I was so ill I could barely stand for our tour and despite the offer of a doctor, insisted on staying there for the whole day. Its a place Ive wanted to see for years and even illness wouldn't deter me. Following the tour I fell asleep in the sun for about two hours. I just wrote to Mum that I wanted her there so much to make me better but in her place I had the next best thing a crook person could want - a wonderful Fo. She truly is like Indiana Jones. She trekked out of the complex to get me Sprite and dry crackers and made me drink all day. As a result I feel amazing now, nowhere near like the death I felt yesterday morning.

All in all, we've now pretty much reached the end of the Peru leg of our journey and completed what we really felt was the climax of the trip. The trek was wonderful. Today we'll leave cusco for Chile and begin the million hour bus ride to Santiago. Mum says its only fifteen more sleeps til we're home. I think shes almost as excited as we are.

And I still havent found a dress to wear to Drew and Peg's engagement party. The women in Chile and Peru are much more petite than me. Ah well, the prodigal daughter will be home, I reckon I could wear a scak and it would be okay.

Right, Im now entering ramble territory and someone is awaiting the computer.

Much love,
Captain Co

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